No Sew Jellyfish Amigurumi
-Minimal amounts of worsted weight yarn (less the 1 skein)
-4 mm hook
-tapestry needle (I prefer bent tip)
-pair of 9mm safety eyes with locking washers
*I used Big Twist Premium worsted weight yarn for the samples pictured*
Make sure stitches are made so that no stuffing shows. Gauge can be adjusted as desired, but be sure to adjust your hook and eye sizes to correspond appropriately with your chosen yarn.
*pattern uses US terms*
sc= single crochet
sc2tog= single crochet 2 together
BLO sc= back loop only single crochet
FLO sc= front loop only single crochet
ss= slip stitch
MR= magic ring (magic circle)
Round 1: 6 sc into MR, join with ss in 1st sc, pull MR tight, ch 1. (6sc)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around, join with ss in 1st sc, ch1. (12 sc)
Round 3: *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around, join with ss, ch 1. (18 sc)
Round 4: *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around, join with ss, ch 1. (24 sc)
Round 5: *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc* repeat around, join with ss, ch 1. (30 sc)
Round 6-12: 1 sc in each sc around, join with ss, ch 1. (30 sc)
Round 13: 1 BLO sc in each sc around, join with ss, ch 1. (30 sc)
Round 14: 1 sc in each sc around, join with ss, ch 1. (30 sc)
Round 15: *sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog*, repeat around, join with ss, ch 1. (24 sc) DO NOT FO! *SEE PICTURE BELOW*
The first 15 rounds are completely routine. The line around the base of the head is created by the BLO sc in round 13.
*Insert 9mm safety eyes between rows 10 and 11 about 5-6 stitches apart.* SEE PICTURE BELOW
Place 9mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, spaced 5-6 stitches apart. Center the seam along the back of the head when choosing where to place the face.
*Use a scrap of yarn to embroider cheeks slightly below and to the side of the eyes (toward the outside of the face). Tie the tails together inside the head to secure.* SEE PICTURE BELOW
Use scraps of super bulky yarn for quick, easy cheeks. Place a short horizontal stitch between rounds 11 and 12 beside each eye (toward the edge of the face). Go over each cheek twice, stitching into the same spaces. Tie ends together inside head to secure.
Note: This round is a doozy, but hang in there! You’ve got this! It just looks scary. Take it 1 tentacle at a time. The curl at the tip of each tentacle is the same. I’ve listed the stitch sequence below (hereafter known as “curl sequence”) in order to simplify the pattern for easy reading. I like to use the “back bump” *SEE PICTURE BELOW* of the ch to stitch into because this method leaves a nice clean edge on both sides of the ch, but it is not necessary to use this method. If you stitch into the front side of your ch it will come out just fine as well, just a little less finished.
This photo show the backside of the chain for a tentacle. The marked stitch is the “back bump” where the next stitch would be made. If you choose to use this method, place your stitches as you usually would, but in the single loop “back bump” instead.
“Curl Sequence” = (skip 1 ch, ss in next ch, 3 sc in next 3 ch, 2 sc in next 4 ch) *SEE PICTURE BELOW*
The chain will begin to curl as you add stitches and may look a little wonky at first. This is ok! Just give it a little tug on the ends once you have completed the tentacles to hand block the curls. The remaining ch are filled with single sc. The photo above shows the 1st tentacle as you can see the 10 ch to be filled with sc (the marked stitch is the first stitch of these 10 ch).
Round 16: 2 sc2tog, *tentacle 1* ch 19, complete curl sequence, sc in remaining 10 sc *SEE PICTURE A*, 2 sc2tog *SEE FIGURE B*, *tentacle 2* ch 15, complete curl sequence, sc in remaining 6 sc, 2 sc2tog, *tentacle 3* ch 17, complete curl sequence, sc in remaining 8 sc, 2 sc2tog, *tentacle 4* ch 21, complete curl sequence, sc in remaining 12 sc, 2 sc2tog, *tentacle 5* ch 16, complete curl sequence, sc in remaining 7 sc, 2 sc2tog, *tentacle 6* ch 20, complete curl sequence, sc in remaining 11 sc, join with ss to initial sc, ch 1. (12 sc2tog not counting the tentacles) *SEE PICTURE C* (PICTURES BELOW)
PICTURE A: Complete the curl sequence and then sc in each remaining ch (this is the only difference between tentacles- the curl sequence is the same for each). I find it easier to count from my hook when identify the ch stitches for the sc stitches. DO NOT sc into the sc in which the ch is based.
PICTURE B: The 2 sc2tog will fall across the 4 sc following the ch (count these beginning with the sc directly to the left of the sc in which the ch is based (unless you are left hand, in which case it will be on the right ;) ). The 2nd sc2tog will be the base for your next tentacle ch.
PICTURE C: The tentacles are complete. They will be gathered in the next round in order to achieve the “mushroom cap” shape. For now they will hang down, but don’t fret! This will correct in the next round.
Round 17: sc2tog *SEE PICTURE D*, skip tentacle by pushing it forward and stitching behind it *SEE PICTURE E*, repeat around, join with ss to initial sc, FO *SEE PICTURE F*. Weave in end and pull hole closed. (6 sc)
There should be 2 sc between each tentacle at the start of the round. You will sc2tog using those 2 sc (see marked stitches above).
Skip the tentacles by pushing them forward (toward you) and stitching behind them. The photo above shows the ch1, completed first sc2tog (marker to the right), the pushed forward tentacle (center between markers), the 1st stitch of the 2nd sc2tog (marker on left).
This photo shows the completed round. It should have caused your tentacle to be gathered together and centered on the underside of the body/head. You will have a small hole that remains. FO and use the the tail to close the hole. Weave in end.
Note: Use a standing sc to attach your yarn to the 1st exposed front loop of round 13 to the left of the seam *SEE PICTURE BELOW*.
Turn your jellyfish so that the tentacles face upward and the seam is facing you. This will make it so that the “right side” of the skirt is facing up. If you keep your jellyfish facing tentacles down, it will still work, but the skirt will be “wrong side” up. Attach your yarn with a standing sc to the exposed front loops of round 13 just to the left of the seams as shown by the marked stitch above.
Round 17: 2 FLO sc in each exposed front loop of round 13 *SEE PICTURE TO LEFT*, join using invisible join method, FO. Weave in all ends.
NOTE: The stitches in the skirt are meant to create a gentle ruffle at the edge of the body/head. You may need to block the ruffle (I just gently tug it with my fingers) to make the curves even. If you wish to have a more pronounced ruffle you can increase the count so that 3 FLO sc are placed in each stitch.
ENJOY YOUR JELLYFISH!!! THANK YOU FOR SUPPORTING FrogShmog Patterns!!!