Bobble stitch= *yarn over, insert hook into desired stitch and draw up a loop, pull through 2 loops leaving remaining loops on your hook*, repeat *to* 2 more times until you have 4 loops on your hook, yarn over and draw through all 4 loops

Squishy Sheep Amigurumi

Materials:

~150 yards of Bernat Blanket yarn (2 colors if desired- you will need 1 full skein for the body color)

6mm hook

Tapestry needle

 

Abbreviations:

MR=magic ring

sc=single crochet

sc2tog=single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)

hdc=half double crochet

dc=double crochet

BLO-back loop only

ch =chain

ss=slip stitch

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IMPORTANT Construction Note: This is a no sew pattern that is worked from the bottom up. You will begin by making and then joining the legs. The body will be built upwards from the point where the legs are joined. You will leave holes from which you will build the arms later in the pattern. The snout is built separately from the back of the head and will be completed first. The back of the head is added in rows attached at either side to the base of the snout. The ears are placed as the back of the head is built. The arms are added at the end. The only sewing required is to stitch the crotch area closed when joining the legs. All directions are included in the steps outlined below. This is a more ADVANCED PATTERN, but you can do it! The one piece construction makes for a very durable finished toy. 

 

Leg (make 2)

-using hoof color-

Round 1: 6 sc into MR, join with ss. (6)

 

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 3: ch 1, BLO sc in each sc, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 4: ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with ss. (12)

 

-change to leg color-

Rnd 5: ch 1, BLO sc in each sc, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 6-11: repeat Rnd 4

 

Rnd 7: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (16)

 

Rnd 8: ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (20)

-FO 1st LEG ONLY LEAVING AN 8” TAIL SEWING THE CROTCH TOGETHER- You will use the working yarn 

on the 2nd leg to connect the legs and complete the body. SEE PICTURE BELOW

-STUFF THE LEGS AND CONTINUE STUFFING THROUGHOUT-

 

Rnd 9: -this round will connect the legs- starting on the 2nd leg, ch 1, sc in next 16 sc leaving last 4 sc unworked SEE PICTURE A BELOW, align the legs so that the remain 4 unworked stitches of leg 2 line up with the last stitch (and tail) of the and next 3 sc of leg 1, mark and connect these 8 stitches using stitchs markers and leave them unworked SEE PICTURE B BELOW, sc in the reamining 16 sc stitching around the perimeter of leg 1 (exclusing the stitch marked crotch area- you will use the tail from leg 1 to stitch this up at the end of this round), join with ss to initial sc on leg 2. (32)

-use the tail to sew up the crotch and tuck the tail inside the body-

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

-CHANGE color for the wooly body if desired-

Rnd 10: ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (40)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 11: ch 1, *sc, bobble stitch in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (20 sc, 20 bobble stitches) SEE PICTURE BELOW

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join with ss. (40 sc) SEE PICTURE BELOW

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 13: ch 1, *bobble stitch, sc in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (20 sc, 20 bobble stitches) 

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 14: ch 1, sc in each stitch around,  ch 5, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and dc in next 3 ch (this will create the tail- don't worry about the hole underneath as the sc starting the next row will pull it closed), join with ss. (44 sc) SEE PICTURE BELOW

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 15: ch 1, skipping the tail and pushing it to the OUTSIDE of the body cavity, *sc, bobble stitch in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (20 sc, 20 bobble stitches)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 16: ch 1, *sc in next 8 stitches, sc2tog*, repeat *to*, join with ss. (36)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 17: ch 1, *sc, bobble stitch in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (18 sc, 18 bobble stitches)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 18: ch 1, *sc in next 7 stitches, sc2tog*, repeat *to*, join with ss. (32)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 19: ch 1, *bobble stitch, sc in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (16 sc, 16 bobble stitches)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 20: ch 1, *sc in next 6 stitches, sc2tog*, repeat *to*, join with ss. (28)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 21: ch 1, *bobble stitch, sc in next stitch*, repeat *to* around, join with ss. (14 sc, 14 bobble stitches)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 22: ch 1, *sc in next 5 stitches, sc2tog*, repeat *to*, join with ss. (24)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 23: -holes that will serve as bases for the arms are added this round- turn your work so that the front faces you (side WITHOUT the tail), flatten the body and mark the 2nd stitch from both sides (left and right) SEE PICTURE C BELOW, turn the body over so that the back faces you and mark the 2nd stitch from both sides (you should have 9 stitches across the front of the chest and 7 stitches across the back separated by sets of 4 stitches on the left and right sides) SEE PICTURE D BELOW, the 4 stitches between both sets of stitch markers will serve as the bottom of the arm and will remain unworked, -turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)- ch 1, *bobble stitch, sc in next stitch*, repeat until you reach the 1st stitch marker (this may be in a different place than mine because it depends how straight you keep your seam), ch 4 and skip next 4 marked stitches, **sc, bobble stitch in next stitch**, repeat **to** across the chest placing 1 sc in the last remaining stitch before the stitch marker (you should have 5 sc and 4 bobbles), ch 4 and skip next 4 marked stitches, repeat **to** across the back (you should have 4 sc and 3 bobble stitches), join to the initial bobble stitch. SEE PICTURE E BELOW

PICTURE C

PICTURE D You will use chains to “jump” over the marked sections to leave starting holes for the arms.

PICTURE E It will look like overall straps when complete.

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 24: ch 1, sc in each stitches around the back and chest, FOR BOTH THE ARM HOLES: (BLO sc in 1st ch, BLO sc2tog, BLO sc), join with ss. (22)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 25: ch 1, *sc, bobble stitch in next stitch*, repeat *to* around replacing 1 sc above each shoulder hole with a sc2tog (you should end up with one over each arm hole), join with ss. (10 sc -2 of these will be sc2tog-, 10 bobble stitches)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 26: ch 1, *sc in next 3 stitches, sc2tog*, repeat *to*, join with ss. (16)

 

Rnd 27: ch 1, sc in each sc around, join with ss. (16)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the INSIDE (WS)

Rnd 28: Mark and leave unworked center 7 sc across the chest (this will be the base for the snout). The remaining 9 stitches will form the base of the  back of the head. The stitch your seam falls in (this will vary depending on how straight you make your seam) will dictate which stitch of the following sequence to start in. For example, if your seam falls in the 5th of these 9 stitches then you will begin in the 5th stitch of the following sequence and will complete the stitches 1-4 at the end of the round.  beginning on the left side in the 1st stitch after the 7 marked stitches place (sc, bobble stitch) in 1st stitch, (sc, bobble stitch) in 2nd stitch, sc in 3rd stitch, bobble stitch in 4th stitch, sc in 5th stitch, bobble stitch in 6th stitch, sc in 7th stitch, (bobble stitch, sc) in 8th stitch, (bobble stitch, sc) in 9th stitch. Ch 18 and skip the 7 marked stitches to connect the 1st and 9 stitches of the back of the head. SEE PICTURE F AND G BELOW (7 sc, 6 bobble stitches, ch 18 space)

PICTURE F side view (skipped stitches are to the right) The skipped stitches will become the underside of the chin.

PICTURE G front view (skipped stitches are in the middle) The loop will become the sides and top of the snout. The back of the head will be worked in rows across the bobble stitch section in the back and will be attached to the loop on either side.

FO and pause work on the back of the head for now. We will complete the back of the head after completing the snout. 

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS) with the 7 skipped stitches facing you.

-change to snout color if desired (like to use the same color as the legs)-

 

Rnd 29: attach yarn with a standing sc in the center of the 7 stitches, sc in each sc and  sc in the FLO of each ch around, join with ss. (25) SEE PICTURES H AND I -this will form the snout, it will be joined to the back of the head later-

PICTURE H side view (Rnd 29 is black)

PICTURE I front view (RNd 29 is black)

Rnd 30-31: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join with ss. (25)

 

Rnd 32: ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog*, repeat *to* around, sc in last stitch, join with ss. (20)

 

Rnd 33: ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog*, repeat *to* around, sc in last stitch, join with ss. (16)

 

Rnd 34: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog*, repeat *to* around, sc in last stitch, join with ss. (14)

 

Rnd 35: ch 1, *sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog*, repeat *to* around, sc in last stitch, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 36: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog*, repeat *to* around, sc in last stitch, join with ss. (9)

FO and use tail to sew the snout closed. SEE PICTURES J AND K

PICTURE J side view (hole is not yet closed)

PICTURE K front view (hole is not yet closed) Use the tail to pull the tip of the snout closed.

-Use a scrap of yarn to embroider the face if desired- SEE PICTURE BELOW

Begin working in ROWS on the back of the head by attaching yarn with ss to 1st ch on the back side of the about loop SEE PICTURE BELOW. You will be stitching across the top of the neck and then attaching the last ch of the snout loop to secure the back of the head to the front. You will continue in the manner until you reach the crown of the head at which point you will begin working in ROUNDS to complete the top of the head.

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

ROW 1: (there should be 13 stitches across) DO NOT CH 1, *sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next stitch*, repeat across, sc in last stitch, ss to the last ch of the snout loop to secure the end of row. (19) SEE PICTURE BELOW

ROW 2: ss to next ch on snout loop and turn (you will be working with the INSIDE (WS) facing you), *sc in next sc, bobble stitch in next sc*, repeat *to* across, sc in last stitch, join with ss to corresponding ch of the snout loop and in next ch of snout loop, turn. (9 bobble stitches, 10 sc)

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

ROW 3: sc in next 3 stitch, *ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sc in same stitch as base* sc in next 14  sc, sc in next stitch and repeat *to*, sc in next 2 stitches, join with ss to corresponding ch of the snout loop and in next ch of snout loop, turn. (21) SEE PICTURE BELOW

ROW 4: repeat ROW 2. (10 bobble stitches, 11 sc) SEE PICTURE BELOW

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

ROW 5: sc in each stitch across, join with ss to corresponding ch of the snout loop and in next ch of snout loop, turn. (21)

 

ROW 6: ss to next ch on snout loop and turn (you will be working with the INSIDE (WS) facing you), *sc in next sc, bobble stitch in next sc*, repeat *to* across, sc in last stitch, join with ss to corresponding ch of the snout loop. (10 bobble stitches, 11 sc)

 

-Embroider the eyes and nose using a scrap of yarn.-

 

-RESUME WORKING IN ROUNDS-

 

-turn your work so that you are working on the OUTSIDE (RS)

Rnd 37: ch 1, sc in each stitch around INCLUDING THE 6 STITCHES ACROSS THE FRONT OF THE HEAD, join with ss. (27) SEE PICTURE BELOW

-turn (you will be working with the INSIDE (WS)-

Rnd 40: ch 1, sc2tog around, join with ss. (9)

FO and use the tail to pull the hole closed. Weave in end. SEE PICTURE BELOW

Arms (repeat on both sides- you will be working on the OUTSIDE):

-Using same color as the legs-

Round 43: beginning with a standing sc in any stitch (I like to start in the middle of the underarm so that the seam is hidden under the arm, but any stitch is a fine starting point), sc in each stitch around placing 2 sc in the sides of the base stitches, join with ss. SEE PICTURE BELOW (12)

Rnd 44-51: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join with ss. (12)

 

-change to hoof color-

Rnd 52: join with standing BLO sc, sc in each stitch around, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 53: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 54: ch 1, BLO sc in each stitch around, join with ss. (12)

 

Rnd 55: ch 1, sc2tog, join with ss. (6)

FO and use to tail to pull hoof closed. Weave in end. SEE PICTURE BELOW

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